Italy - Day 6: Rome

I decided I wanted to do a bit more exploring in Rome, so I took the underground to the Colosseum and bought a "hop on/hop off" ticket.

There were a number of sites I wanted to see, the first being the Castel San't Angelo:

Castel San't Angelo...

Completed in 139AD, the Castel San't Angelo was commissioned by Emperor Hadrian as a mausoleum for him and his family. As time went on, however, it was used by Popes as both a castle and a fortress. In fact, there's a once-secret passageway that leads from the Vatican to the Castel San't Angelo. Once the tallest building in all of Rome, it's now a museum.

The bridge leading to the Castel is adorned with ten statues of angels, but there's so much more to see than just statues of angels:

Mounted police at the Castel San't Angelo. A police presence is everywhere in Rome...

The stature entitled Angel with the Garment and Dice by Paolo Naldini at the Castel...

Along with the preceding photo, street performers at the Castel San't Angelo...

The Castel San't Angelo...

The sun seen from behind the stature "Angel with Superscription"...

As much as I would've liked to have gotten to go around the city, I fell victim to a guy selling "beat the line" tours at the Vatican. I knew I would be visiting the Vatican while in Rome, so I didn't see much reason not to go now.

St. Peter's Square in The Vatican...

The Vatican is the smallest city-state in the world. Its total area is only about 109 acres and the population, currently, is less than 900 people. Since 1377, the palace has been been the home of 55 Popes, and it's the third largest palace in the world. It has 1,400 rooms, 200 of which serve as apartments for the Pope, the Secretary of State and the highest church officials. Want to live there? Super! You just need to be a Cardinal, a Vatican diplomat, or work in a position which requires that you live within the walls of the Vatican.

The Vatican Museums are among the world's most famous, and it's easy to see why. If you can see past the incredible crowds which traverse through the museums every day, the collection of artwork which awaits you is mind boggling.

Of course, out of all of the artwork people flock to the Vatican to see, the most popular is Michaelangelo's masterpiece: the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel. The ceiling is covered in frescoes by and is over 8,200 square feet is size. It took Michaelangelo over four years to complete it. 

Over 20,000 visitors cram into the Sistine Chapel every day.

Michaelangelo's masterpiece, the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel...

Michaelangelo's masterpiece, the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel...

Michaelangelo's masterpiece, the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel...

Now, I feel the need to be very clear about something: Photography is forbidden inside the Sistine Chapel. 

"Well, Steve", I hear you ask, "How did you get photos if photography is forbidden?"

Fair question.

I was disappointed when I first heard about the ban on photography, but when I discovered why it was banned I became a bit angry. See, I generally take a rather dim view of a "no photography" rule which is driven solely by a financial motive, and that's exactly what has occurred here. When Vatican officials decided it was time to restore Michaelangelo's art inside the chapel, the price tag was more than they bargained for, so they decided to seek outside help. Well, the Nippon Television Network Corporation of Japan offered up $4.2 million in exchange for exclusive photography and video rights inside the Chapel. 

Had the policy been in place because it's a profound place of reverence and devotion, I could've gotten on board with that and I'd have turned my camera off. But to not let someone take non-flash photos (and, to be fair, flash can damage ancient artwork) simply because you want to sell them your postcards in the gift shop?

Yeah, not so much.

I'm the kind of person who normally follows rules to a fault, but I wasn't about to let myself be screwed out of a once in a lifetime opportunity because some Japanese company said I should be screwed out of that once in a lifetime opportunity.

So, after traipsing though the museums and breaking the rules ('cause I'm a rebel and stuff), it was time to head onto what every visitor to the Vatican yearns to experience: St. Peter's Basilica.

Inside the unimaginably huge St. Peter's Basilica...

St. Peter's Basilica (or, formally, the Papal Basilica of St. Peter in the Vatican) is the centerpiece of the Vatican, and is the largest church building in the world. The original building was built in the 4th century over the tomb of St. Peter (which I saw but was not permitted to photograph). The massive dome was designed by Michaelangelo (and did anyone ever call him "Mike" or "Mikey"?). Construction of the current Basilica was started in April of 1506, but wasn't completed until November of 1626.

Michaelangelo took over the task of overseeing the construction in 1547, and he wasn't all too happy about it. He is now, however, regarded as the principal designer of the majority of the building. Said Michaelangelo at the time: "I undertake this only for the love of God and in honour of the Apostle." The Apostle he was referring to was Peter.

St. Peter's Basilica...

Sitting directly below the dome, inside the chapel and directly above the tomb of St. Peter, is Bernini's Baldacchino (canopy), said to be the largest piece of bronze in the world. The high altar of the basilica sits beneath the canopy. Commissioned by Pope Urban VIII in 1623, it was completed in 1634.

The Baldacchino by Gian Lorenzo Bernini...
 

The tomb of St. Peter (photo sourced from Wikipedia)...

Jesus Christ and St. Peter...

St.Longinus, by Gian Lorenzo Bernini...

Most of the sculptures in St. Peter's Basilica are accessible to the public, save one. Michaelangelo's Pieta is now displayed behind a panel of acrylic, bullet proof glass. This was done after Lazlo Toth, a deranged Hungarian geologist, set upon the statue with a hammer on May 21, 1972 screaming "I am Jesus Christ; I have risen from the dead!". He damaged the left arm, Mary's nose and one of her eyelids. It has since been restored.

Interestingly, it's the only piece that Michaelangelo ever signed.

Michaelangelo's Pieta (photo sourced from the web)...

From the main floor of the Basilica I found my way into the Vatican Grottoes. This is where Popes, Kings and Queens are interred. There were only a few I'd hoped to see. Unfortunately, John Paul II wasn't made accessible the day I was there, but others were, including Pope Paul VI. His tomb, however, differs from others in the Grottoes because he asked to be buried in "the true ground". Consequently, his remain were not placed in a sarcophagus as other Popes were. Rather, his body was buried in the ground beneath the marker.

The final resting place of Pope Paul VI

The tomb of Pope John Paul I. He was the first Pope born in the 20th century and served as Pontiff for only 33 days...

To truly explore the entirety of the Vatican, I think, would take weeks. It's just so unbelievably huge that a single day, or even several days, would not be sufficient. Add to that the fact that there are enormous crowds to deal with and, well, you'll understand why it would take a protracted amount of time. And, with regards to the crowds, skip the "guided tours" of the Vatican which are offered all over Rome. Frankly, I was a bit put off by how inefficient the Vatican's procedures were for groups. It's like a cattle drive with art. It may take a little longer to do it on your own, but I think it would end up being a bit more enjoyable.

After I finished exploring St. Peter's Basilica, I made my way back over the the Castel San't Angelo to catch the "hop on/hop off" bus. I made it to the last bus and got off at their final stop, where I found the Santa Maria degli Angeli e dei Martiri, a titular basilica church. Like pretty much every other church in Rome, it's rather plain on the outside.

The rather austere exterior of the Santa Maria degli Angeli e dei Martiri...

Inside the Basilica is a completely different story, though. It's true that most churches in Rome are very plain on the outside, but it's also true that they're quite ornate on the inside. The Santa Maria degli Angeli e dei Martiri is no different:

A replica of the Shroud Of Turin is displayed at the altar inside the Santa Maria degli Angeli e dei Martiri...

 

After spending an hour or so exploring, I decided it was dinner time. So, I walked back towards the underground station and grabbed some really good pizza (as if there was such a thing as bad pizza?) at one of the bajillion pizza joints in Rome.

No secret what they're selling here...

As I sat there eating, it started to dawn on me that my trip was winding down. There were only two days left before I'd be flying back to the States. In one way I felt like I'd seen such a tremendous amount and, in another, I felt like I hadn't even begun to scratch the surface of what there was to see here.

Maybe that means a second trip is in order...